GardenForum Horticulture - for everyone with an interest in gardening & horticulture

 

YOU ARE HERE Pest Watch > Aphid control

 

Pest Watch

Aphid control

 

Aphids. Image: iStockAphids, blackfly, greenfly are probably the most widespread plant pest problem in the garden. They will attack a wide range of garden and indoor plants - from annuals, perennials and vegetables to trees, shrubs, climbers, roses and fruit. Gardeners with aphid problems may need to take steps to control them.

Some species are specific to a plant or group of plants, and some produce characteristic damage to the plant; bean blackfly, plum leaf-curling aphid, mealy cabbage aphid and currant blister aphid are just a few examples. Woolly aphid covers itself in a cotton wool-like substances that provides protection against predators and contact insecticides.

For most of the year, the often huge aphid colonies are made up of wingless females that give birth to live young - usually in huge numbers and very quickly. Winged aphids develop at certain times and fly to another plant. Most aphids overwinter as eggs, but some species remain as active aphids, especially in mild winters or on indoor plants.

Some aphid species go through an annual lifecycle that involves two different host plants. Eggs overwinter on one plant, hatch and feed on the young foliage in spring then winged forms are produced that fly to the other host where they spend the summer.

Not only do aphids suck plant sap, they excrete a sugary substance called honeydew - which attracts sooty moulds that grow on the honeydew - and some aphids can transmit plant viruses when they move from one plant to another.

Aphid, blackfly, greenfly control

Luckily, aphids have many natural enemies - including ladybirds, hoverfly larvae, lacewing larvae and several parasitic wasps. If your garden is short of these, you can now buy them from biological control suppliers. See suppliers.

The best method of control is to keep a regular/daily in summer eye on susceptible plants and squash the one or two aphids you see before they build up into huge colonies. In this instance, blasting them with water from a hosepipe, pressure sprayer or even pressure washer is a quick and chemical-free way of controlling them.

There are a number of chemical pesticides that you can use on aphids, blackfly and greenfly. Those sold as 'organic' are contact insecticides, which means you have to hit the aphid to kill it - miss even one and it will soon develop into a colony of hundreds/thousands. This means you need to check plants regularly - daily in summer.

Systemic insecticides, containing thiacloprid or acetamiprid, provide the best control; they also kill on contact, but are also taken inside the plant where they go on to protect against further attack for several weeks.

Bayer Provado Ultimate Bug Killer and Scotts BugClear Ultra are systemic and are taken up by the plant where they will help control aphids - and other sap-sucking insects. There are only certain edible crops that they can be used on; check the label before using.

Biological controls are available for plants growing in greenhouses or conservatories. See suppliers for a list of suppliers.

Use plant protection products safely. Always read the label and product information before use.

Suppliers

Buy a range of pest control products from my affiliate companies, Harrod Horticultural and Greenfingers.com

 

If you want to know more, or if you've got a gardening problem you need help with, then send an e-mail to: info@gardenforumhorticulture.co.uk

Problems with slugs & snails, scale insect, vine weevil, whitefly or lily beetle?

Online shop

Bosch Ciso Pruner

Find out about my online shop »